Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: More about the sleeves

Vitale Barberis Canonico, one of the oldest woollen mills of the world, celebrates bespoke tailoring with the project Tailor's Tips, a series of 12 videos in which the master tailor Giovanni Barberis Organista, directed by Gianluca Migliarotti, tells what happens behind the scenes when a hand-stitched suit is created.

The eleventh episode of the online tutorials by Giovanni Barberis Organista is about trousers.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

In this article you can read and then see the video about several parts of the trousers. You can check the precision with which trousers are made. So: -The pocket: see that the edges of the pockets, all match perfectly, both horizontally and vertically.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

- The belt loops have been sewn by hand, stitched above and below.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

- At the bottom, there's a cuff with a button. The fabric is not cut but there is an opening in the seam, two stitches hold the thread of the seam and there is a small button which is no bother when the trousers are pressed.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Inside, they're lined English style. There's a strip at the waist, the pocket goes all the way under this strip, where there is no pocket, there is a material that covers the seam. It takes more time to do and it is very different.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Trousers are worked, first with an iron, to give shape to the leg. It turns a bit of a calf and then comes in at the back.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Let's see how the trousers are made before they're sewn:
These processes are done well with an iron, with a heated, suction surface. Therefore first you must steam, and try to loosen or bring back the fabric. After the steaming, fix the fabric with suction and make it come back. Then a crease is given, the final one. If it changes, it does so very little. Do this on the both sides of the trousers.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

When you put the trousers on the table, you will see that it already has a shape.

Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Trousers

See also:
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: How to make a pattern
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Preparation for cutting
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Cutting
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Linings
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Jackets
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Collars and Undercollars
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Lapels
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Sleeves
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: More about the sleeves
Tailor's tips by Vitale Barberis Canonico: Buttonholes and Buttons


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